“We
declare the 2016 Naadam Festival open!” boomed the loudspeakers.
And with that, the fireworks went off, leaving a trail of magenta,
teal blue, yellow, and green smoke in their wake. The performances
and sporting competitions were
set to begin.
This announcement kicked off one of the many 2016 Naadam Festivals
that will take place across Inner Mongolia this summer. Most of the
festivals occur in July and August, but some participants compete in
June and even during the winter months. There isn’t one single
Naadam Festival, but rather many at all different levels: village,
banner, and league. While Naadam is a national holiday in Mongolia,
it is also recognized in China.
The
word “Naadam” means “three games of men.” The “three games”
refer to horse racing, wrestling, and archery. In past competitions,
only men were permitted to compete, but today women are allowed to
participate in horse racing and archery. Contemporary wrestlers are
still male, however. The Naadam Festival has existed for centuries,
with its likely origin being sporting competitions that followed
weddings and religious events. It is also possible that it has
existed since 1220 just after Genghis Khan, who held the festival for
the first time, conquered the Khwarezmian
Empire, located
in modern-day Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and Turkmenistan.
Qing Dynasty administrative divisions also hosted the festival in
China. Today, thousands of people from all over Inner Mongolia gather
at various Naadam Festivals to watch the games as a form of
entertainment.
The
legacy of Genghis Khan was certainly present during the festival that
I attended this summer. During the opening ceremonies, men on
horseback in colorful robes of bright blue carried long spears with
three curved points, very reminiscent of a trident. “That’s
Genghis Khan’s traditional weapon,” Saikhan, my travel companion,
told me. He went on to say that it is the “spirit of the Mongolian
people.” While driving throughout the grasslands and small towns of
the middle of Inner Mongolia, I saw reproductions of the spear
everywhere, lending credence to what Saikhan said.
During
the time of Genghis Khan, wrestlers were considered heroes and often
married the daughters of noblemen. No marriages took place during
this festival, but I still had the opportunity to observe the
distinction set aside for modern-day “heroes”: colored wreaths
that demonstrate how many competitions the wrestler has won. We
gathered on the grass in the middle of track in a circle around the
competitors. A number of matches occurred simultaneously, and
referees stood by each pair of wrestlers to call each one. A wrestler
lost when any body part other than the hands or the feet touched the
ground. A good strategy, I observed, is to attempt to trip one’s
opponent, as that makes for an easy victory.
Immediately
to the left of the wrestling competition, the archers set up their
targets. Naadam as it was celebrated during the time of Genghis Khan
tended to focus primarily on archery. Each archer, in bright blue and
purple costumes, drew his bow high into the air while a judge yelled
briefly to indicate that the archer is aiming and will let the arrow
fly. It can be dangerous to be a spectator, and the judge had to yell
for several people to cross behind the target quickly so that no one
would be injured. After the archer has released the arrow, several
judges examined its landing place to determine the archer’s place
in the lineup.
It
was difficult to catch a full round of all the events, as a number of
them happened at the same time. After Saikhan and I left the archery
field, we returned to the track to catch the next lap of the third
round of the horse race. I’m able to get right up against the fence
and see the horses and their racers up close as they whizzed by. At
that point, they were quite close to one another, so no there was no
clear winner yet. The winner of the first round was quite an
accomplished rider, as according to an announcement, he finished 0.8
kilometers (0.5 miles) ahead of his closest competitor.
Naadam
has also seen some modern developments in recent years. Saikhan told
me that while Naadam has generally had an additional emphasis on
musical performances, the festival is now an opportunity to invite
well-known singers and musicians to perform. A throat singer
performed—the
first female throat singer I had ever seen—along
with a group of morin
khuur
(horse head fiddle) players.
In addition, there is a commercial aspect to the festival. Just
outside of the stadium, vendors sold everything from Inner Mongolian
milk products to grilled seafood to stinky tofu. The products weren't
simply Mongolian, but rather represented different parts of China.
The
Naadam Festival that I observed in July 2016 was really a mix of old
and new. Old sporting events that evoked the memory of Genghis Khan
and new performances and food tents
similar to modern outdoor fairs anywhere. It was a privilege to
experience firsthand a key part of Mongolian culture.
Allison Quatrini, Ph.D. Political Science 2017
2016 Sigur Center China Summer Research Fellow
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