Most
people who travel to Beijing make sure to see the highlights: the
Forbidden City, Tian’anmen Square, the Temple of Heaven, and the
Summer Palace. Few sojourners to the Northern Capital, however,
experience the nooks and crannies of the city. On the afternoon of June 24th,
I went on one such an adventure to one of the most tucked away
tourist sites: Qianshi Hutong.
Located
off Zhubao Street, which runs perpendicular to Dazhalan Commercial
Street in the Qianmen neighborhood, Qianshi Hutong is easy to miss.
That’s not surprising, as Qianshi Hutong has the distinction of
being the world’s narrowest hutong. I went in search of Qianshi
Hutong three times during my both my current and previous tenures in
Beijing. The first time, I walked past it entirely and spent a good
portion of the afternoon walking up and down Zhubao Avenue, finally
returning home in defeat. I was able to locate it several weeks later
with a travel companion, and the second pair of eyes was certainly
helpful. Today, on my own once again, I walked all the way down
Zhubao Street, recalling that the hutong would be on my left, but
passing it by nonetheless. Given the increased tourist presence in
the area and the market stalls selling silk scarves, cloisonné
jewelry, and Old Beijing snacks, Qianshi Hutong has been practically
swallowed up.
In
Chinese, the name “Qianshi” means “Money Market.” It’s a
fitting name, as Qing Dynasty moneychangers would go there to
exchange currency. The hutong also boasted 26 mints that produced
money for all the banks in Beijing. As it stands today, what is left
of the hutong dates back to only the late Qing Dynasty, as a fire
during the 1900 Boxer Revolution burnt much of the area to the
ground. After the establishment of the People’s Republic of China
in 1949, the party-state reformed the monetary system entirely, thus
rendering Qianshi Hutong obsolete.
Just
how narrow is Qianshi Hutong? It’s 55 meters (180 feet) long, but
just 70 centimeters (28 inches) at its widest. At one point, the
alley narrows down to only 40 centimeters (16 inches). The alley
isn’t wide enough for two people to pass by one another. Just this
afternoon, I entered the hutong while another person was leaving. I
turned to the side and backed up against the wall to allow her to
pass—it would have been impossible for either of us to move
otherwise. The reason for the extreme narrowness relates to the
original purpose of the hutong. Were someone to have robbed the
banks, the narrow passage would have made escape difficult, thus
making it far more likely for the authorities to successfully
apprehend the thief.
As
I walked the length of the hutong this afternoon, there’s very
little, with the exception of two plaques, that betrayed the
alleyway’s original purpose. I glimpsed some faded white stone that
might have been part of the façade of one of the mints or
moneychanging houses, but it’s so worn that it’s impossible to
tell. Rather, the hutong is primarily residential now, with wooden
doors leading into small, intimate courtyards and laundry hanging in
front of the windows.
The
hutong first made its appearance in China during the Yuan Dynasty, a
time during which the Mongols ruled. In fact, the origin of the word
“hutong” is a Mongolian word meaning “water well.” These
alleys used to be the lowest level of administrative division in
Beijing. Parts of this Mongolian influence still survive today,
although a number of hutongs have been demolished to make way for
high-rise apartment buildings. Some of the alleys, including Qianshi
Hutong, are protected, thus preserving just a bit of Old Beijing
culture and history.
Allison Quatrini, Ph.D. Political Science 2017
Sigur Center 2016 China Summer Research Fellow
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