Easing into India in Majnu ka Tilla

Noise, especially traffic noise, is a seemingly inescapable fact of city life. Vehicles are noisy everywhere, but noise pollution is a particular problem in South Asia’s urban centers. Delhi is no exception, and I always come prepared with an ample supply of my favorite earplugs. I am very grateful, then, to have found a truly peaceful neighborhood on the western bank of the Yamuna River to call home during the past several weeks of fieldwork in Delhi.

Majnu ka Tilla (or MT, as it is popularly known) is a designated settlement for Tibetan refugees. Quite contrary to the negative visions that might be conjured by the term “refugee colony,” India’s Tibetan population is well-settled and united under the Tibetan government-in-exile led by the Dalai Lama, whose portrait is prominently displayed in every establishment. MT gives the impression of strong community organization and economic prosperity. Its streets are swept clean daily. Residents and visitors alike crowd into restaurants and cafes throughout the day and, although owners and senior managers are almost invariably Tibetan, employees are drawn from all backgrounds and from across northern India and Nepal. Tibetan, Hindi, Nepali, and English languages are all heard in good measure. Delhi’s rather dour and aggressive public culture is nowhere in evidence, apparently left behind at the colony gates.

The colony draws a wide range of visitors. MT is an important stopover point for Tibetan monks traveling between Dharamsala, Kathmandu, and monasteries across India and the world. It is also located near the north campus of Delhi University and has long been a popular student haunt. A friend who studied at DU in the late 1970s and early 1980s tells me he used to visit to drink cheap chhaang (Tibetan rice beer). These days, there are still plenty of students, but the neighborhood has earned a reputation as a foodie destination and draws weekend crowds from across Delhi’s large middle class. My friend’s daughter, now a student at DU herself, is a regular in MT; I have reassured my friend that the chhaang dens of his youth are nowhere to be seen, replaced by air conditioned cafes and restaurants of a high standard that serve food from across Asia, including Tibet, Nepal, Korea, and India’s northeast.

Another standout characteristic of MT is its nearly traffic-free character. Its alleys are too narrow to permit cars, and while the occasional motorcycle makes its way through, the colony is essentially a pedestrian zone. This is rare anywhere in the world but, in a city of heavy, aggressive traffic, it makes MT a true gem. Residents who own cars park them outside the colony walls. Deliveries are offloaded outside the colony and brought in by cycle rickshaw.

I am grateful for the refuge that MT has provided during my work in Delhi: a friendly and peaceful place to write, read, decompress and, of course, eat, after a day out and about. But what about the chhaang? This is my third time staying in Majnu ka Tilla, and until a few days back I thought the colony had gone completely dry. Not so! No doubt the best chhaang is brewed at home and kept for personal consumption. The other night, though, I did find a very good cup of traditional Naga rice beer. At 120 rupees (around $2) a glass, it’s far from the cheap chhaang of my friend’s youth or that I would sometimes buy out of Castrol motor oil jugs along the East-West highway during previous work in Nepal. The quality is the best I’ve had: slightly sour, and a little thick.

I am off to Lucknow tomorrow for the next stage of my work. But, I am already looking forward to a few more nights in peaceful MT at the end of the summer. 

Sam Frantz is a doctoral student in political science, and a recipient of a 2017 Sigur Center Grant for Asian Field Research.

Greetings from Nagoya, Japan!

こんにちは～!

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Hello! I'm Irene, a rising senior at the Elliott School pursuing a degree in International Affairs with a double-minor in Peace Studies and Japanese. Thanks to the Sigur Center's Summer Language Grant, I'm currently participating in an intensive Japanese language program at Nanzan University in Nagoya, Japan and am thoroughly enjoying every minute!

Although the classes go at a much faster pace than I'm used to, studying the language while actually in the country is much more enriching in my opinion because learning isn't confined to the classroom.  I've found that my conversational Japanese has improved immensely as I've caught myself thinking in Japanese rather than thinking in English and then struggling to verbalize a coherent translation.

Downtown Nagoya

Once of the reasons I chose to pursue a language program in Nagoya rather than Tokyo is because I wanted to place myself in a strictly Japanese-speaking environment. Tokyo, being the nation's capital city and most popular tourist destination, has plenty of bilingual Japanese citizens and English-speaking tourists. Alternatively, Nagoya is a mid-sized city with more opportunities to practice my language skills by virtue of fewer English-speakers. There's a lot to learn just from everyday interactions.

Although smaller than Tokyo, Nagoya has its own tourist attractions, too. One of its famous spots is "Osu", its shopping district. Among the various shops and brand name stores are also small shrines and places of worship. I found this mix of tradition and modernity particularly interesting and think it quite unique to Japan. Even more, a couple of weeks ago was Nagoya's own Atsuta Festival (熱田祭り）. Each entrance to the Atsuta Jingu Shrine was marked by a giant float containing lanterns. Inside, the walkways were lined with street vendors making popular Japanese dishes to the tune of traditional Japanese music. Live performances varied from dancing and drumming to archery. The night ended on a bang with a spectacular fireworks display. 

In a couple weeks, I plan to go visit Kyoto, the historical capital of Japan. Can't wait to see what's in store and can't wait to share it with you guys!

Until then!

(Above) Osu Shopping District

(Above) Atsuta Festival

Irene Mutwiri

George Washington University - Elliott School of International Affairs

B.A. International Affairs

Sigur Center 2017 Asian Language Fellow

Nanzan University - Summer Japanese Program, Japan

ICLP's Approach to Learning Chinese

ICLP’s Approach to Learning Chinese:

Taipei’s National Taiwan University (NTU) is home to one of the most prestigious Mandarin language programs in the world. The International Chinese Language Program (ICLP) focuses on improving students’ scholarly speaking abilities. ICLP alumni praise the program for the dramatic results it produces. So, what is the secret to ICLP’s success?

The program prides itself on its unique approach to learning. ICLP bases its curriculum on “5 Principles” and “8 Actions.” Students that adopt the “5 Principles” and consistently utilize the “8 Actions” are guaranteed to drastically improve their Chinese speaking abilities in only a matter of eight weeks.

Let’s examine ICLP’s 5 Principles:

Focus on Content Relevant to You   At ICLP, the administrators and professors tailor the curriculum to their students’ needs. With many students hoping to use Chinese in their academic coursework and in their future professions, the program focuses on teaching Mandarin for scholarly use. They have found students are better able to retain information that is relevant to them. Ultimately, the program aims to prepare students to use Chinese in their everyday academic and professional lives after leaving the program.

Use the Language to Communicate   As students begin to learn the language, it is critical that students use what they learn to communicate. Students’ communications will reinforce what they learn in the classroom. To encourage this principle, ICLP is a language immersion program. Students must sign a pledge to speak only Chinese while at school and are encouraged to continue utilizing Chinese as they explore Taiwan. In such an environment, students learn from both their professors and their classmates.

Prioritize Understanding the Message   At ICLP, learning is believed to come through understanding. When learning Chinese, students are tempted to prioritize learning what characters look like before learning their meaning. Ultimately, the message is more important for communication. For this reason, the program is structured to emphasize listening comprehension and speaking.

Emphasize Physiological Training   To reinforce successful learning, it is critical that physiological training be a cornerstone of your language study. Because Chinese is a tonal language, students who pay attention to tones early on will have a more wholesome understanding of the language and find greater success in their communications.

Your Psycho-Physiological State Matters   The last, and what ICLP coordinators believe to be the most critical principle in the study of the Chinese language is approaching the learning process with passion and a positive mindset. We will all face our own difficulties throughout the course of our language study, but only those who embrace optimism and maintain their passion for Chinese language and culture will be able to persevere.

Now, let’s examine ICLP’s 8 Actions:

Listen A Lot   While beginners may not be able to communicate effectively, they can improve their communication skills more quickly through active listening. Listening can take place both in and outside of the classroom.  Also, because Chinese is a tonal language, it is critical that students listen to perfect their own speaking and pronunciation. ICLP creates a great environment for listening as students and teachers each agree to speak only Chinese on campus. While beginner students may be overwhelmed at first, they find themselves recognizing new words and phrases each day to use in their own communications.

Focus on Meaning before Words   Instead of simply memorizing what characters look like, ICLP encourages students to use what they learn to increase their overall understanding of the Chinese language and culture. When learning characters, it is critical that students learn the meaning and history behind the words. This meaning-based approach to language study reinforces the learning process and the student’s memory.

Start Mixing   At ICLP, language instructors believe in teaching roughly equal parts nouns, verbs, and adjectives. As you diversify what you learn, you will be able to communicate more effectively and on a broader range of subjects.

Focus on the Core   Instead of teaching Chinese as a progression from simple to challenging words and sentence structures, at ICLP the teaching staff focuses on “the core.” To get students communicating in Chinese more quickly, ICLP prioritizes teaching high frequency vocabulary that will form the core of a student’s every day and professional communications.

Get a Language “Parent”   To reinforce what students learn in the classroom, and to foster ongoing language use students are encouraged to get a language parent. A student’s language parent is anyone they can practice their Chinese with on a regular basis. Without a language parent, students are more likely to not use their Chinese outside of the classroom. A language parent is a critical part of the long-term learning process.

Copy the Face   For students focused on improving their speaking abilities, copying the face is important. Pronunciation can be perfected by both listening and mirroring. Students that pay attention to nuanced facial expressions and how words are enunciated will achieve quicker success.

Establish a Direct Connection to Mental Images   While ICLP emphasizes speaking, they do encourage students to attach mental images to words to help remember the various Chinese characters. Creating such connections will reinforce a student’s reading skills as well as speaking.

Focus on Syntax/Syntactic Rules   To effectively communicate using Chinese, focusing on syntax is crucial. Without a working knowledge of Chinese syntactic rules, one will not be able to master the language. So, at ICLP students focus on learning these rules and applying them to their daily communication. In the immersive environment, these syntactic rules are reinforced and students begin communicating more accurately. With the goal of producing academic speakers, ICLP instructors work to diversify students’ knowledge of syntactic rules.

As I begin my summer studies at NTU, I will embrace ICLP’s approach to language study. I can only hope that this method will improve my speaking abilities as it has all the students before me.

Katelyn DeNap

George Washington University - Elliott School of International Affairs

M.A. Security Policy Studies

Organization of Asian Studies – Vice President

Sigur Center 2017 Asian Language Fellow

National Taiwan University - International Chinese Language Program, Taiwan